Fonda San Miguel
The opening of Fonda San Miguel, in 1975, changed everything in Austin’s understanding of what true Mexican food is all about. Today it remains a bastion of classic dishes from that country’s interior and of gracious dining in general. The heart of the place is the lovely dining room, a gallery of original contemporary Mexican art. Chiles rellenos are a specialty; of the three versions on the menu, we love the ancho, a mild, sweet chile stuffed to bursting with a well-mannered filling of moist chicken, almonds, and olives. Our dining companion’s nice-sized shrimp, broiled in garlic butter, got the Yucatan’s tikin xik treatment of achiote and many (too many, truth be told) pink pickled onions. Our third friend was pleased with a filet of black drum in cilantro-serrano cream sauce, just the thing for someone who appreciates subtle flavors.