Deep Southern roots branch out in new directions at this former gas station. Liver and onions are reimagined, transforming the expected Southern staple into decadent melt-in-the-mouth bites of foie gras with caramelized onions and brown gravy (save some cornbread for that), all of it topped with crispy fried rings of purple onion. The chicken-fried steak is more traditional, with an expert breading, a splatter of good cream gravy, and a bed of mashed potatoes with texture enough to prove their provenance. Everything presented by chef Tim Rattray (who also runs the Granary), is made in-house and served with panache. Sides of collard greens and squash casserole are good enough to merit double orders. In fact, all of the portions are modest but priced accordingly, unless you are expecting a country-cafe bill. The outdoor patio offers games and shade, while the interior is cozy with comfy banquettes.
City: San Antonio