In the trendy, expanding Design District, chef-owner Jon Stevens elevates modern favorites with notable skill. Watermelon salad had the expected watermelon, feta, and basil, plus a splash of ponzu. The flatbread with tomatoes came topped with melted mozzarella and truffle oil. Hungry despite our snacks, we took the waiter’s tip to add crab to the ricotta dumplings; in a simple blue ceramic bowl, the bits of shellfish and soft, warm dumplings did a yin-yang dance with brussels sprout leaves, capers, and a bright hit of lemon sauce. To finish, we couldn’t resist butterscotch pots de crème with peanut brittle bits and sea salt. The sleek space boasts an expansive, monochromatic Pollock-like painting, cement floors, and the inevitable noise.