Ladies, don’t be surprised if your hand is lifted for a kiss upon your arrival. Polish, panache, and beautiful plating—presided over by chef-owner Frederick Costa—are just part of the courtesy, and precise cookery, you can expect. Here, France and Vietnam meet congenially at a white-linen-clad table over crisp pork spring rolls, earthy hoisin-glazed pork ribs, and a seasonal salad featuring thinly sliced raw beets with cooked yellow and red beets, each piece a sculpted morsel (stellar knife work is another notable delight here). The French side shines in the seafood: on our visit, flounder with a light eggy batter and classic beurre blanc. Noon or night, the restaurant is quiet enough for conversation, dim enough for romance, and posh enough to impress.