With steakhouse and seafood restaurants established, the Gatsby’s enterprise is expanding east to the Navigation area for an all-American grill. The room is sleek, if a bit cavelike, with a long bar, black-and-white tile floors, black chairs, and touches of green. The menu ranges from pricy steaks and fish to bargain salads and sandwiches. Our top marks go to the campechana, a huge glass filled to the brim with a bounty of whole shrimp, crab, avocado, tomato, and serrano peppers (just spicy enough) and served with crisp, fresh chips and street corn, luscious halved cobs roasted and topped with garlic aioli, cotija cheese, and a sprinkling of cilantro. Less successful were a poblano soup—nicely textured but overly salty—and Anaya’s Burger, generously loaded with a fried egg, lettuce, tomato, bacon, garlic aioli, and pepper jack cheese. The problem? A dry, overcooked meat patty.
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An all-American grill from the Gatsby's Prime enterprise.