Returning to Gemma is like donning a favorite cashmere sweater: both feel comfortable and classy but unpretentious. On weekends, the cozy dining room is packed but never noisy. The seasonally changing menu features stellar locally sourced ingredients. The complimentary biscuits are irresistible, but save room for starters like the spicy grilled gai lan (Chinese broccoli) or the baked oysters with leeks, guanciale, and Gruyère. Superb pasta dishes include squid ink bucatini with shrimp and Fresno chiles in a briny, garlic-kissed sauce. A tender braised pork shoulder with brothy Rancho Gordo white beans was earthy and satisfying.