Edith Wharton devotees (or those who find the reclaimed-wood trend just a bit twee) might see this secreted dining room as a revelation—beautiful high ceilings, velvet banquettes, and cheeky framed nudes on the gallery walls. The space is hushed; we were almost the lone table. The food aspires to be comfortable and accessible but with enough style that you’re willing to fork over the clams for underseasoned mussels with chorizo or an adequate strip steak. At our table, the carrot bisque with a nice swirl of olive oil to counter the sweetness and a bacon topped cavatappi and cheese—crusty and deliciously gooey—made the meal. Sea scallops on nests of spaghetti squash with golden raisins and crispy sage were toothsome, but we decided that the kitchen must be outside (like the restrooms), given the cool temperature of the food.