On a recent Friday evening, we found ourselves among the early-dining set and felt as if we were participating in a diorama of a nouveau riche fifties dining club. We would not have been surprised to see Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin kicking back at the bar. The waitresses, of course, called everyone by name. We started out with pouches of enoki mushrooms infused with truffle oil and blackened ahi served with a tangy peanut sauce. We could not resist the sushi (GZ is known for it in these parts) and chose the Lollipop roll, with salmon, white and yellowtail tuna, Hawaiian snapper, cream cheese, and fried jalapeño, with eel sauce and sriracha. We kept this exquisite theme going with two versions of sashimi-grade salmon, pan-seared to medium-rare perfection, one glazed in honey and the other in a delightfully wicked Jack Daniel’s concoction.