With the Mueller development just to the south and the second location of Cenote a few streets to the north, it was only a matter of time before this aging shopping center would be on the radar of entrepreneurial restaurateurs. This time, it’s the folks who brought us Henri’s (which closed in 2016). Their new project is an all-day space—one third coffee shop, one third lounge, and one third modern diner. A long open deck invites the neighbors in; the space is like the white jeans in your closet—breezy, light, and evocative of Southern California. There are cocktails and charcuterie plates carried over from Henri’s but also sea salt–studded slabs of olive oil cake and venison kolaches for the morning commute. And though the service is frustratingly wet behind the ears, the more substantial dishes are excellent, like deep-mahogany fried chicken, with a crust that shatters as you dunk bites into honey emboldened with sriracha, and comforting tagliatelle pasta with a hearty Bolognese sauce and dabs of ricotta cheese.
Cuisine: New American