This outpost of Fort Worth’s “farm to smoker” original fills the soaring space vacated by Mockingbird Diner, near Love Field. Since day one, folks have waited in line to order, but the socially distanced queue moves fast. The famous smoked meats often sell out before closing time. Order this to go: Our hands-down-favorite is the Niman Ranch pork ribs, sold by the pound; easy to pry from the bone, they are succulent and remarkably tender, and a peppery dry rub imparts a faint sweetness that harmonizes with the subtle smokiness. The pinto beans are exceptional: creamy-textured whole beans with a thick, richly flavored broth. Burnt bacon ends are caramelized, carnitas-like nuggets; they also turn up in a breakfast taco available earlier in the day. Pro tip: There’s an airy patio if you want to eat onsite.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.