Chef Kevin Fink doesn’t do predictable. The chef-owner of Emmer & Rye opened Hestia in December, with originality and complexity front and center. The minimalist glass-walled room on Shoal Creek is dark and sexy at night, and the service is beyond attentive (enthusiastic waiters explain everything). The name honors the Greek goddess of the hearth, and cooking takes place on or over a twenty-foot grill. Top bites on an early visit included sliced raw avocado and ember-roasted beets, richly flavored with beef tallow and tricked out with a beet pickle. Another favorite was Alaskan king crab leg in a delicious roasted kelp butter with a touch of persimmon vinegar. Dry-aged wagyu skirt steak (impressively tender for that cut) came with Hestia’s one-of-a-kind soy-based steak sauce made with eels (anchovies are way too obvious). Emmer’s pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph is on hand with stylish desserts like lemon streusel cheesecake.
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Originality and complexity—and a twenty-foot grill—are front and center at Kevin Fink's Hestia.