Chef Ryan Hildebrand once ran elegant Triniti in Houston. Now he’s done a 180 and opened a fun venue with country knickknacks on the walls and concrete floors outside the weekend destination town of Wimberley. The hummus-like purple-hulled-pea spread came off bland, but the confit-tomato pie was essentially a fine, down-home quiche, made with farmer’s cheese. Our main courses ran the gamut from good-but-chewy chicken-fried venison in sawmill (sausage) gravy to a fine redfish on the half shell with almonds and an interesting sorghum glaze. Best overall: a magnificent burger with smoked cheddar and bacon jam. Major rethinking is needed on the tough-crusted, molasses-tinged malted walnut pie. Pro tip: you can avoid winding farm roads by routing your GPS through Dripping Springs.
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Hildee’s Texas Dine-Inn
A fun country venue from Houston chef Ryan Hildebrand.