We had to wait for a table at this lively neighborhood spot, an instant hit from the Boulevardier, Rapscallion, and Veritas team. Warm woods, taxidermy, comfortable couches, and tchotchkes lend a lodge look, and the food outshines typical bar fare. Besides beer and cocktails, there’s also a smart wine list (48 bottles, a rarity at beer-centric taverns). A juicy, cheesy patty melt with pickled peppers on sourdough ranks high among the sandwiches; the Smoked “Bologna”—decadent and shareable—is thick with pecan-smoked and griddled mortadella topped with cheese and “secret sauce.” Even the salads (Chicken Tinga, Hillside Wedge) are hearty. As for sides, the beer-battered onion rings stayed impressively crisp long after their arrival. Echoes of Rapscallion turn up in the pimento cheese, fried chicken sandwich, and bread pudding, which is deep-fried and served with whiskey-butter sauce.
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This Lakewood watering hole boasts a fun, easygoing menu.