Hinodeya Ramen & Bar
Setting up shop in a cozy, casual space, fourth-generation Japanese chef Masao Kuribara exports his dashi-ramen concept from San Francisco to Dallas. Dashi—a seafood-based broth—distinguishes this ramen house from others, which typically feature tonkotsu (pork broth). Our meal started splendidly with sips of house sake and crispy fried oysters from Hiroshima, Japan’s oyster capital. The complex house ramen, made with a bonito-konbu-scallop broth enriched with pork oil, managed to be rich with umami but also light in body. The spicy miso ramen has a bold chile flavor that we liked too. Both dishes boasted springy, squiggly wheat noodles; marinated soft-cooked eggs; and chasu pork. A host of other ingredients added interest to the savory bowls. We’ll be back to try a ramen special, and perhaps the vegan ramen.