Despite finally capturing a James Beard Award, Hugo Ortega is not resting on his laurels. On our recent visit to the Montrose flagship, our delicate campechana—light, tangy, and delicious—was followed by a remarkably tender grilled octopus with a fiery red salsa and small blue corn tortillas. And we can never resist the queso flameado, studded with wood-grilled steak, rajas, and mushrooms, wrapped table-side, and exploding with flavor. After that came roasted duck with a deep mole negro. Perfection. We sat near tall windows taking in the hustle of servers and a romance playing out at the bar.