Hugo’s at its best represents the best of Houston. Our last visit produced neither a hitch nor a glitch but was complete perfection. The talented and friendly staff makes the warm, brick-lined room even more celebratory, and the regional Mexican food dazzles. And the portions are generous to boot! The appetizer of bacon-wrapped quail with pomegranate mole could be an entrée. Ditto the ceviche de callo de hacha, a mix of scallops with dollops of tart tomatillo relish. The roasted pescado relleno, a striped bass with a stuffing of Mexican squash and root vegetables, was crisp and moist, and a classic carne brava, a skirt steak with poblano peppers, was succulent. Margaritas are tasty and powerful. For a unique experience, visit for the Sunday brunch, a grand buffet accompanied by mariachis on the balcony.