The menu at this joint that serves “Central Texas–style barbecue with a Tex-Mex twist” includes such unusual fare as pork belly burnt ends and quail. If you can’t make up your mind, order the El Jefe Platter, a sampling of six meats that includes tender brisket, sweetly glazed pork ribs, and very juicy turkey. If you’re feeling more adventurous, the Big Red barbacoa tostada delivers smoked beef cheeks braised in the Waco-born soft drink and topped with beef-tallow refried beans, salsa verde, Valentina hot sauce, cotija cheese, cilantro, and raw white onions. The desserts rotate; if you get a chance, try the Mexican bread pudding garnished with pork belly burnt ends. Plan for a nap.
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