Ichigoh is easy to miss amid the hubbub of Commerce Street, especially at night. The restaurant’s modest facade doesn’t announce itself (look for the Angry Dog, next door), and parking can be scarce. But it’s worth the trouble. We started with gyoza, pan-fried pork-and-cabbage dumplings, and karaage, delicious boneless bits of fried chicken thigh. Then we moved on to soboro shoyu, a chicken chintan broth laced with sesame oil, scallions, and spicy ground pork (when they say “spicy” here, they mean it), and abura soba, a broth-less dish with slender, crinkly, springy noodles and braised pork belly, flavored with soy, aromatic oil, vinegar, red pickled ginger, and seaweed. For dessert, we loved the Japanese version of baumkuchen, glazed with whiskey butter and served with vanilla ice cream and candied pecans.