Pizza is a to-go natural, and these from master chef, restaurateur, and food journalist Michael Sohocki (and team, led here by Jason Garcia) are a wonder to behold, with ingredients sourced locally, meats cured in-house, and perfect Naples-style crusts occupying just the right spot between crisp and chewy, with plenty of char to prove the provenance. Order this to go: Of the pies, the Fun Guy layers Italian fontina and Taleggio and plenty of garlic, while the Milano tops ribbons of chard with dollops of Gorgonzola, cranberries, and pecans. Don’t forget the antipasto plate; if anything, it’s even better than the pizza, and there’s always a surprise or two on the plate (or these days, in the box). Pro tip: Available from 3:30 to 6:30 Tuesday through Saturday, the $30 combo is a real deal; it comes with one Margherita pizza, another pizza of your choice, and either a six-pack of Dorcol HighWheel Betty beer or a bottle of house white or red.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.