Dining Guide

Intero

With a stated mission to use the intero (“whole”) ingredient, animal or vegetable, one of the latest dining rooms to open in East Austin is roughhewn in design and refined in plating. A penchant for shaving vegetables into chips to be used as a garnish was perhaps the central unifying element on the meandering menu. Caramelized squash with chewy bits of farro brightened by fermented kale and crispy brussels sprouts showed deftness with local produce. Vivid beets brunoise made a snapper crudo seem otherworldly, while the house-made gnocchi brought us back to a more recognizable realm. We loved the palate punch the pickled vegetables gave a creamy white bean dip (although the accompanying crackers were far from crackly). We were told that many of the dishes were mere tastes for the table, but we found the portions—especially a platter of crunchy cornmeal-dusted fried quail—to be hearty. A thimble-size dark chocolate truffle (made in house) was just the right finish.