Although this cozy spot, with its wood-burning oven, prides itself in utilizing the entire (or intero) animal (butchered on-site), there’s nothing distressing to be seen. In fact, the vegetables and pasta are inspired, and they often best the animal protein. A starter of calico clams, served on a slab of grilled sourdough, was tasty (although some of the bivalves were a touch gritty). We had hoped to have a bit more anchovy funk from the advertised bagna cauda to balance creamy burrata cheese, but the walnut-studded bread was next level. The dish that had us scraping the plate, though, was tiny cowries of pasta called malloreddus, the morsels amplified by roasted mushrooms on a swirl of pureed butternut squash. Sided by coins of ruby carrot, Gulf snapper, in a light but creamy broth, was dramatic in preparation, even though a bit overcooked. Ending the meal on an herbaceous sweet note—with house-made rosemary-infused chocolate and two different iterations of Earl Grey chocolates—was entirely delightful.