If you’re near EaDo (east of downtown) and in the mood for top-drawer barbecue, head across I-69 just east of the George R. Brown Convention Center. J-Bar-M is not your average ‘cue joint: sleek, with lofty ceilings, it resembles a high-end sports bar with its oversized flatscreen TV’s and a bonus outdoor beer garden. We went whole hog and ordered the four-meat plate with pork ribs, brisket, half a chicken, and sausage, plus sides. The meat was cooked to perfection: tender, moist, and loaded with flavor. The sides were mixed, with less-than-memorable green beans and coleslaw that will appeal  to mayo lovers, but the mac and cheese was satisfyingly goopy. Our dining partner described the charro beans as delicious, so much so he declined to share. There’s only one variety of barbecue sauce, but with just the right touch of sweetness and heat.