What’s “modern” at this Preston Center restaurant isn’t so much the food (mostly old-school Szechuan and Cantonese favorites) but the moody lounge-like feel, creative cocktail list, and sushi menu. Order this to go: The signature spicy wontons make an excellent, easy-to-share starter: tender, bite-size pork dumplings are drizzled with chile-garlic oil and showered with red pepper flakes, sesame seeds, and scallions. The Mongolian beef stars fork-tender marinated flank steak with a savory, mildly spiced sauce, loads of onions, and fried rice noodles. Don’t miss the dry-fried green beans, a garlicky stir-fry of just-tender beans that works as an entrée with the addition of a protein (we like them with pork). Pro tip: There’s free parking after 5 in the attached parking garage.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.