Dining Guide

John Mueller Black Box Barbecue

Beef ribs are John Mueller’s signature cut. On Thursday and Friday, he’s cooking the same chuck short ribs that he served in Austin. The more fashionable, and larger, plate short ribs are served on the weekends. A layer of fat on the chuck ribs had crisped into a beef chicharron from the high heat of the pit. There was an audible crunch as our teeth cut through it to the tender meat below.

The amply fatty cut remained juicy even as it rested on the tray for several minutes. Let it sit, and start instead with the brisket ($20/lb), which is less forgiving. Because it’s served so hot, the slices of Choice grade beef (Mueller bumped up the quality from his usual Select grade beef) will dry out on you pretty quickly after it’s cut. The black pepper in the bark bit back, and the outer edges of fat had turned pleasantly crunchy. Every bite, with a bit of fat and bark in each, became a reminder of John Mueller’s good days in Austin.