Like Athena, this newcomer, a collaboration from Top Chef Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu, seems to have sprung up fully formed, and beautifully so. Handsome setting? Check. Well-trained, pleasant servers? Check. Fine wines and cocktails? Imaginative, satisfying fare? Reasonable prices? Check, check, and check. From a short menu, we started with a snack of peanuts gussied up with chile flakes and lime leaves—addictive. Our Gulf shrimp aguachile with avocado, crunchy taro bits, shrimp oil, and a topping of paper-thin radish slices had some heat but not too much. Ditto beautifully fresh salmon in an oolong tea broth with leeks, pioppini mushrooms, and gremolata (when we finished with the fish and fixings, we drank the broth!). A side of coconut jasmine rice was great with the dish, as well as with the bone-in lamb curry, the meat pull-apart tender and accented with pickled daikon and pistachios.
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Imaginative "New Asian American" fare in the Heights.