When the Juniper wait staff tells you they fight over the roast chicken at the end of the evening, take them seriously. In fact, though the menu is packed with chichi ingredients such as oxtail ragù and saffron risotto, it’s stripped-down dishes like the juicy “simply roasted chicken” (as it’s billed) that stand out. The puffy potatoes look as though they belong alongside a greasy burger rather than a glass of cabernet but taste like otherworldly little balls of the fluffiest whipped potatoes you could dream up. And, sure, spaghetti seems a little too on-the-nose for an Italian restaurant, but thick chunks of prosciutto and egg yolk swap in for the meatballs and red sauce, creating a creamy cloud for perfectly al dente noodles. Take a cue from the decor: don’t be afraid to go back to basics.