Subtle sophistication emanates from the comfortable dining room and open kitchen. The prix-fixe dinner has options for all diets, with each course exhibiting deft execution, from the gossamer pureed potato puffs to the hamachi crudo bathed in the essence of tomato and topped with fennel flowers. Cacio e pepe (the noodles made in house) is decadent with or without shavings of white truffle (consider the splurge if you are seeking nirvana), and a medallion of beef, served medium-rare, is unadorned but pure in flavor. Hazelnut ice cream doused in espresso ends the meal on a chic note. The portions are generous, and an à la carte menu is available if the prix fixe feels like too much.
