We miss the happy bustle of this place (and the innovative drinks!), but chef Nikki Tran’s delightful “Vietjun” fusion travels easily. Tempting photographs on the online menu make it easy to choose. Order this to go: We relished the quirkily named Grandma Subsidy, a layer of crisp fried rice topped with pork belly, anchovies, green onion, seaweed, and sesame seasoning, and the sausage banh bot chien, a flat omelet of sorts with smoked sausage, rice cake squares, pickled veggies, scallions, and soy vinegar. And don’t miss Tran’s famous pork and shrimp dumplings, nor the reasonably priced, heavenly scented pho. Pro tip: We were lucky to find a parking place in front, on Dunlavy. You may need to pull around back.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.