KB’s brisket is wildly smoky. The two lean slices had about an eighth-of-an-inch rosy-red smoke ring capped by a thinnish mahogany crust. The crust is not “bark” exactly, because it wasn’t that thick and it didn’t dominate the experience, but it had plenty of flavor and the close-textured meat was tender, if not exactly falling apart. The russet-hued ribs, unlike the brisket, were enrobed in a midnight-black bark and had a highly seasoned, almost hammy quality. They were compelling, as was the pale, tender, almost sweet pork chop, speckled deliciously with black pepper and bearing the remnants of Cajun rub on the outside.
Method: Mesquite in an offset smoker
Pitmaster: Kevin Broll
Hours: M-F 11 - sold out (around 2:00)
Phone: (361) 649-8049
Year Opened: 2009
Last updated: April 25, 2014
This review comes from Texas Monthly’s Food Editor Pat Sharpe who found this little barbecue trailer during her travels through Victoria. The first sign that today was not my day was when I screeched up in front of Kevin Broll’s barbecue truck a mere nine minutes before closing time—that was pretty much a guarantee that …