After the successful launch of a ghost kitchen in the Ridglea area, chef Jesus Garcia makes a strong return to the scene in the same space where he launched a different ramen shop a few years prior. This time both menu and shop are streamlined, and Garcia’s handiwork has never been as deft. Order this to go: The gyoza here ruins us for any others, thanks to handcrafted paper-thin dumplings stuffed with pork and cabbage, then seared to provide a crispy exterior and tender interior; the vinegar-soy dipping sauce is the ideal complement, and the cucumber-seaweed salad in sesame vinaigrette proves a perfect companion. Chicken karaage finds juicy thigh meat within a crunchy coating, with the one-two punch of yuzu-teased mayo and bright, piquant togarashi spice for dipping. Pork belly tonkotsu is a foolproof ramen, but the bowl of lamb birria brings tears of joy with its depth and its nuanced flavor, with the soft egg and added pickled red ginger for brightness. Pro tip: Avoid peak dinner hour, or there’s likely to be a wait.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.