Chef John Tesar bucks convention with his modern steakhouse in the Highland hotel, and that’s much of Knife’s appeal. The relaxed, stylish dining room has an energetic vibe, and the menu moves beyond traditional fare. We like the wide range of choices, from a pricey dry-aged ribeye and a righteous $12 burger with salsa verde fries to a crazy-good crudo and beef tartare with oysters. The house was packed on our visit, but service was swift. Complimentary crudités with divine Green Goddess dip scratched our salad itch, freeing us for the stellar king salmon crudo: shingles of rich fish, tart green apple, and buttery avocado drizzled with jalapeño oil and a white soy sauce. Steaks are still the big deal here, but the fork-tender beef rib impressed us too; after lengthy sous-vide cooking, it’s char-grilled, sliced, and artfully plated. Sides were no afterthought; don’t miss the roasted okra with tomatoes.