You could almost feel the collective sigh of relief when this jovial neighborhood sushi spot reopened its dining room. (Regrettably, sushi to go in plastic containers during the pandemic did not come with a boisterous irasshaimase from welcoming sushi chefs.) There’s likely going to be a wait for a table when you arrive, but the well-executed bites from the new all-day menu are worth it. A miso-glazed salmon collar, buttery and savory, might have come from a whale given the tremendous portion, and the karaage are the dark-meat chicken nuggets of your dreams. The hotate carpaccio— opalescent disks of raw scallop topped with tobiko—is divine, as is the yellowtail sashimi. Servers are genial and deft, slipping morsels of uni and sweet tamago (Japanese omelet) to the savants and korokke (panko-crusted potato croquettes) to the hungry.