Dining Guide

La Barbecue

While some spend their Saturday mornings seeking the must indulgent brunch, others line up here. The crowd can be monumental, but if you get there 30 minutes to an hour before La B opens, at 11, you’ll find a veritable bucket of gold at the end of the rainbow. Brisket is clearly the champion, boasting a thick, peppery, smoky crust and artfully balancing the crucial meat-to-fat ratio. The brontosaurus-size beef ribs and the thick cuts of pork ribs take second place, glorious though they are. Smoked sausage comes crumbling from its casing, and can be a tad spicy, but the pulled pork shoulder sandwich with pickled red onions won’t put anybody off.