You can’t expect less from Cappy Lawton: the man wrote a book (with co-author Chris Waters Dunn) on enchiladas. Try this: deeply red, rich, and earthy mole xiqueño (that multi-ingredient version from the Veracruz village of Xico), slathered over tender house-made corn tortillas enveloping meaty shredded chicken. Unless you want the Old #7—traditional Tex-Mex cheese enchilada, bean-and-cheese chalupa compuesta—from La Fonda’s original menu, which dates from the forties. The delightful mix of past and present extends to the atmosphere, with the century-old oak tree outside presiding over the new open-air dining room and patio. Pro tip: Don’t miss the house-made pralines.