A long-established Southtown neighborhood favorite and well worth attention from downtown tourists, this intimate restaurant does magic tricks with mussels and frites, offering seven different preparations and broths and a most excellent garlicky aioli for the fries. We tried both the classic mariniere version, with white wine and cream, and a spicier Basque take, with smoked paprika and spicy chile and Spanish chorizo (it had just enough heat to leave our tastebuds tingling). If mussels aren’t your go-to, other classic French bistro dishes await. The quiche Lorraine is plump with bacon, onion, and Gruyère, or try a flaky pastry shell filled with cream sauce and either seafood or chicken. Specials change daily and reveal a broader European focus. Nice for a quick and civilized lunch or a dinner with friends, La Frite’s tables are nicely spaced in three dining rooms, meaning there is less clatter to interrupt your chatter.