La Frite Belgian Bistro
There are not a lot of Belgian restaurants in town, but with one this good, we don’t need a lot. La Frite is the very prototype of a French or Belgian bistro, with just the right food, wine, and decor. Steamed mussels, the true specialty of Belgium, are available as an appetizer in any of six guises; we opted for Bavarian and found them exquisitely flavored with bacon, beer, and mustard. For a gentler starter, consider the creamy vichyssoise. Two duck legs (a bit dry and overcooked, alas), with brussels sprouts and polenta, made a satisfactory main course, while a vol-au-vent with seafood (fruits de mer) in a wine sauce had all the notes it would have had in Brussels. Informal but elegant in its own way, La Frite is a fine candidate for dinner on a special evening (even though we did find the service to be hovering and a bit officious).