The name of a storied Central Texas town—site of the infamous Chicken Ranch brothel celebrated in The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas—is apparently a magnet for thirtysomethings on the prowl for novel Mexican food. The Montrose-area haunt, from the owners of the Raven, along with other partners, is in fact more watering hole than eatery. A boisterous crowd regularly packs the two-story space, with its huge patios, chic decor, multiple bars, and killer margaritas. For chow, best bets are the mini house-made grilled flour tortillas served with spicy shrimp-spiked queso and the thick, crisp chips with guacamole and fresh salsa. However, we would skip the unusually sweet campechana and the salty beef fajitas. The stacked chicken enchiladas didn’t come off much better. Bottoms up!