La Laguna Mariscos & Sushi
The border and seafood is often like New York State and fried green tomatoes—best not pursued or recognized (unless it’s family, of course). Now offering its third restaurant chapter, the growing Laguna family redefines border seafood with tightly orchestrated, fresh offerings. All borrow from the rich Mexican coastal seafood tradition of whole fish, tacos, and deep bowls of fish stew. Below the requisite faux nets and industrial lanterns, you’ll find a really stunning huachinango frito, a deep-fried whole red snapper, as well as its unfairly regarded cousin, tilapia, presented in variously sauced guises. The dizzying spectrum of fish tacos here is truly satisfying. Baja-style seems banished and replaced with Veracruz-worthy offerings like tacos camarón al pastor: corn tortillas stuffed with pastor sauce–stewed shrimp, a thin blanket of mozzarella, and more of that sauce, bright with smoky chile, sweet pineapple, grilled onions, and cilantro. Enchiladas verde marlin take smoked marlin, salsa verde, cream, and mozzarella home in thin corn tortillas. Tacos gobernador pair shrimp with poblano and bacon in an inspired trilogy. Table-side house salsa, at least three different kinds, can punt your dish into fiery orbit, if needed.
Address: 2402 Jacaman Rd., Laredo, TX, 78045
Hours: L & D 7 days.
Last updated: October 5, 2015