This sophisticated Latin-inspired seafood spot opened over the summer in a reimagined ice cream shop. Chef/co-owner Victor Villarreal’s tight menu offers clever items like a Shark-cuturie Board, with house-cured gravlax and caviar. The weekly ceviche, on our visit shrimp and clams, was bright with coconut, lime, and jicama. Many plates are meant for sharing, but specials include traditional entrées, like a perfectly roasted sea bass on top of a generous pile of eggplant, squash, and tomatoes. There’s also a thoughtful cocktail list by co-owner Misty Villarreal; try the Panther City Sour, a pisco sour updated with hibiscus and aquafaba (the starchy liquid from a can of chickpeas, which whips up like meringue).