When space and grace matter, La Table makes an excellent option. We recently sampled the lump crab cocktail, a satisfying portion with a light mustard tang, followed by a caramelized cheese soufflé, light and shimmering in a Parmesan emulsion. One companion ordered a special pasta, simply prepared but loaded with black truffles from Australia, a satisfying splurge at $40 plus. Equally fine was the beef filet beautifully encrusted with peppercorns. There are a few service lapses; we don’t mind pouring our own wine but really should not have to at these prices.