Chef Rene Ortiz is hard to box in, and his delightful plates balance colors, textures, and ingredients for a vibrant and extraordinary picnic. Order this to go: Ruby beets melded beautifully with pink grapefruit segments and shavings of pecorino, but the crunch of candied quinoa gilded the dish. Plump fried shrimp with a vivid sambal had Asian DNA, as did tender pork ribs glazed with sticky guava sauce and topped with fried shallots. The subtle grilled octopus over tiny green cabochons of beluga lentil benefited from a touch of the sambal, and the garganelli pasta, creamy with Taleggio cheese, sparkled with floral Aleppo pepper flakes. A six-pack of Laura Sawicki’s Birthday Cake ice cream sandwiches comes in its own cooler. Pro tip: In the small parking lot, there are two spots to the left for curbside pickup.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.