White walls and an aqua-blue floor make the casual converted washateria feel almost beachy. Dishes like crab toast with fennel aioli have an oceangoing bent, while landlubbers are well supplied with hanger steak and red chimichurri. When we dropped by for lunch, the Sunshine Bowl beckoned. True to its name, the five-salad sampler was bright and light. Two favorite parts were the turmeric-spiked chickpea hummus and a wedge of lovely, smoky grilled butternut squash. The “sprouted beans” reminded us of an updated three-bean salad, tricked out with garbanzos, lentils, and peas tossed with tahini. Because we planned ahead, we had room for dessert, a genius blackberry-hibiscus crémeux cut in squares (think firm panna cotta) sided with fresh blackberries and piped avocado cream, all set off by coconut lime sorbet. Summer doesn’t get any better than this.