This River Oaks anchor has its ardent fans and foes. Based on our recent visit, we land in the first camp. Pan-seared chicken dumplings were tender pockets filled with meat, scallions, and ginger in a black vinegar sauce. Glazed and char-grilled pork ribs touched with lemongrass and honey proved meaty enough for a meal. No complaints, either, with slices of tuna with a soy-glazed wild mushroom ragout, hefty lamb chops served with eggplant ratatouille, or the sides of garlicky green beans or tender and crisp garlic noodles. Our service was attentive, and the dark-wood setting more French than Vietnamese. The upstairs area attracts a substantial bar crowd.