With a top-flight wine list and knowledgeable staff, Benjy Levit has knocked it out of the park with this intimate, speakeasy-like wine bar above his Local Foods Market, in Rice Village. Inside is cozy and plush, but we sat on the lofty patio with a couple of cooling spritzers in the late afternoon and felt as if we had gone on vacation. Our fluffy Japanese milk bread with whipped butter and smoked trout roe was soft and tangy, and sesame-ginger meatballs with Thai basil were delicious dredged in a barely adequate peanut drizzle. More! We also loved the smoked, sliced, and tender top sirloin, every bit the equal of that of a steakhouse. The Uni Wiggle pasta with sea urchin, caviar, and saffron chile oil was transporting. Our server was smart and funny, and the vibe throughout is upbeat.