Lenoir

Diners are still flocking to this tiny home for three-course meals inspired by field, land, sea, and “dreams,” i.e. desserts. Vintage china holds ample servings of fresh ingredients from a menu that changes weekly. A bowl of field peas in a savory tomato broth, smoky from mushrooms, was the best of the field, although a slab of rice formed into a terrine with a crusty-edged socarrat came in a close second. As for the sea, four plump and buttery Gulf oysters came served with airy blue-corn hush puppies (the accompanying smoked fish dolloped with caviar was good but superfluous), while a filet of redfish with crispy fried herbs had a subtle Asian flavor from a spritz of nuoc mam. We were enraptured by a traditional Southern slab of pullman bread served with a delicate fresh tomato spread. Southern also won out in the dream course: a tender sweet potato tart shrouded by a cloud of Chantilly cream.