Lenoir

This diminutive spot packs a wallop of flavor into a remarkable prix-fixe dinner. Inspired by what is fresh and local, the plates have global touches that somehow seem quite at home with the white-and-cream shabby-chic decor. Vermillion snapper ceviche danced on the tongue. Rice-crusted red snapper came on a bed of mustard greens, which proved to be a tasty derivative of Indian saag. From the menu’s “Field” section, we enjoyed an heirloom bean salad and fresh tomatoes, but the real action was in the “Land” arena. Lean slices of antelope heart (like a fine steak) showered with ribbons of sunflower petals seemed both exotic and familiar. Delicate quarters of quail in a green mole were absolutely delectable, while grilled pork on a thick blue corn cake used the often overlooked parsnip as part of a beguiling medley.