Lenoir

Culinary creativity and a seasonal focus keep the food here dynamic and delicious. In a nod to hot-weather food, we started with a cocktail of cava and Texas watermelon, as dandy as the red-and-white-striped straw garnishing the glass. Heirloom tomatoes, with a very light XO-style sauce and a topping of crunchy cashews and charred green beans, kept the garden party going. A whole dorade, grilled and mostly deboned, was a showstopper; adorned with shaved cucumber and fresh herbs, it graced a pool of creamy Goan-style curry sauce punctuated with chile oil. Dinner is served alfresco only, in the wine garden, as interior renovations are underway.