Classically trained chef Todd Brown is perfectly situated for these pandemic times, having years ago left traditional restaurant kitchens to focus on creating composed salads, inventive sandwiches, and inspired casseroles for busy folks to grab on the fly. Order this to go: Chicken and dumplings is in big demand, thanks to a velvet-smooth gravy cradling generous shreds of chicken and tender dumplings. The meat loaf meal for two features a textured, deftly seasoned beef that begs a little more tomato sauce, along with peppery new potatoes and crisp green beans. The Off the Waldorf salad combines romaine and diced apple with blue cheese, cranberries, and walnuts with red wine vinaigrette. The giant brownie with pecans could be the best in town. Pro tip: Watch social media postings for the day’s blue-plate special.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.