Reopening after a pause that began in February for tweaks to the menu and decor, a longtime favorite along the Near Southside’s original restaurant row warrants a fresh look. Our favorite among new menu arrivals is a wide, shallow bowl of escargots, sans shells, mingling with sliced portobellos in garlicky butter and a shower of shaved Parmesan. Toasty planks of garlic bread beg shameless mopping. Greek notes shine in the spanakopita, presented in a stylized egg roll form; the warm, thick, crispy cylinders sidled up to cool tzatziki for dipping. Plentiful for sharing, the Creole meat loaf—combining pork and beef tenderloin and topped with crawfish étouffée—proves as flavorful as it is filling. Dim candlelight and live piano music make this a place to linger.