Imagine a box seat at the theater overlooking the tall cypress trees and human drama and comedy of the River Walk—such is offered by this venerable San Antonio steakhouse. Even in weather too chilly for the outside tiered patio, the cozy stone and wood dining rooms inside give dinner a sense of drama. Since our last visit the menu seems to have been simplified, but all the traditional fare remains: a blue-cheese-and-bacon-decked wedge salad, bacon-wrapped quail legs, excellent Texas Black Angus steaks (juicy, nicely marbled, and well-seasoned Choice and Prime ribeyes are the house specialties). Scottish salmon and plump moist chicken breast with mushroom sauce are alternatives to the beef, and loaded baked potatoes or twice-baked jalapeño potatoes are really all you need for sides. Though not formal, service is good. This is an experience that serves up San Antonio with history and charm to spare.