Lonesome Dove Western Bistro
Celebrity chef Tim Love applies thoughtful touches to familiar items, infusing each with of-the-moment ideas. A light shrimp starter, the cast-iron dish of gambas de ajo finds smallish, firm crustaceans bathed in a delicate garlic sauce spiked with sweetish Calabrian chile, all easily mopped up with grilled toast planks. A passion for game makes an appearance in the showy plate of smoked venison short rib, tender shreds of meat falling from the bone over a foundation of crispy-fried cauliflower and beneath greens tossed with fermented lime vinaigrette. Instead of dessert, we like lingering over the Willie, a Manhattan-esque cocktail blending oak-smoked rye, sweet vermouth, and bitters.
City: Fort Worth