Loro’s combination of smoked meats and Asian flavors has lured Austin diners since 2018. Most combinations are friendly and mainstream, like a rice bowl with roasted char siu pork belly (Chinese five-spice powder giving a distinctive lift to a punchy sauce); the coconut rice was delightful, if clumpy, but the flavorful pork ended up overcooked. A bit better was Malaysian chicken breast bo ssam with a salty-sweet topping (though the otherwise moist meat was burnt on the bottom). Sides turned out fine, like a perky summer salad of cantaloupe with cucumber, jazzed by lemon zest and mint. Best of all were plump snap peas, kissed by the grill. One caution: some sauces are strong and oddly matched, like the kimchi-style sauce with the delicate peas, so dip before pouring. A big peanut butter cookie makes a picnic-worthy dessert.
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A brilliant mash-up of pan-Asian flavors and Texas barbecue.
It’s not the meal you’d find at Franklin Barbecue. That’s not a bad thing.