Perhaps the genius of pizza is taking a few relatively simple ingredients and letting fire do its magic. As with the Coltrane record, there are variations on the theme at this convivial spot: the round pizza is Neapolitan style, with a featherlight crust (we preferred the simple pepperoni to the white potato), while the square (technically a rectangle) Detroit style comes with an ample, focaccia-like base layer. Crumbles of sausage and slivers of onions and fennel bulb kept a white pie sophisticated. We couldn’t find the advertised watermelon radish atop the signature Love Supreme pie, but there were plenty of other toppings—pepperoni, sausage, olives, kale—to keep us happy. What made the meal were smart vegetable preparations to balance the carbs; we loved a fan of simple broccoli on a piquant romesco and knuckles of roasted cauliflower sweetened by a golden raisin pesto. Even the kale salad with quinoa and grapes was thoughtful. A large open patio and two bars make gathering easy.