A Lufkin staple for over 60 years, this basics-only spot is celebrated for its spicy, peppery, tender barbecue, as well as its deep-fried yeast rolls and fruit pies. The sliced beef plate was hearty, the brisket tender with just a hint of zesty spice, and the beans and creamy slaw were just-right accompaniments for this stick-to-the-ribs meal. The friendly cook offered us a thick rib “just to taste.” Expect folksy service and lots of locals. (7/13)