It’s hard to decide whether the biggest draw is the imaginative menu (from chefs Bradley Nicholson and Susana Querejazu) or the lovely little plant-filled dining room, with its black-and-white-tiled floor and view over the sweeping grounds of the Commodore Perry estate (now a boutique hotel). Order this: A fun light starter is Lutie’s novel falafel, tidy nuggets of ground sunchoke and sesame seeds dabbed with aioli. Piscivores might consider the svelte filet of halibut or white cod (depending on availability) on Delta Blues white rice sprinkled with smoky coral spheres of trout roe. Or perhaps tender Royal Red shrimp with a buttery New Orleans–style barbecue treatment. Meat eaters should order Yonder Way Farm pork, fatty and delectably crisped, in a sassy pickled cabbage broth. For dessert, a smooth and creamy blue cheese from River Whey Creamery comes with smoked pecans and a dense, sweet preserved fig. Pro tip: Reserve well ahead for outdoor seating; no takeout for now.