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Dining Guide

Macelliao

At this small, clean-lined, quasi-industrial space, the mood is modern but still has the comfortable feel of a neighborhood grocery store (maybe it’s the old-fashioned white-enamel butcher’s scale at the front). The owners are Jennifer and David Uygur, the team behind minuscule Italian restaurant Lucia, which happens to be located a short distance away. At Macellaio (the name translates to “butcher”) the daily list of house-made salumi and charcuterie is the big draw, but there are plenty of varied Mediterranean-inspired small plates and entrées for diners who are just not that into meat. Deciding to try the chef’s tasting menu, we started with a simple bowl of olives and a small appetizer of duck tongue confit, which reminded us of crab fingers. You pick one up and use your teeth to gently slide the meat off the tiny inner cartilage—the taste is exactly like (wait for it) duck. An inventive salad followed, featuring shaved celery, flat-leaf parsley, capers, golden raisins, and Portuguese sardines with a light olive oil dressing and a hint of honey. Next came a small cutting board of David’s exceptional house-made cured meats: pistachio-studded mortadella, smoky ciauscolo, a blood sausage with peppercorns, and a lovely smooth chicken liver mousse on crostini. Breads are taken seriously here and change frequently. On our visit, we had a moist mushroom bread plus a lightly grilled onion and cheese focaccia with a distinct smoky flavor. Even though the variety of what we had tried so far was astonishing, none of the portions were overwhelming, so we had plenty of room for a knock-out heirloom tomato salad with tart sumac and garum (a modern version of the famous ancient Roman fish sauce). Our main course was a dramatic whole skate, grilled and served with a summery succotash of fresh corn, lima beans, almonds, mushrooms, and mint in a light, warm, intensely flavorful broth. By this time, yes, we were nearing our limit, but we had just enough space to sample a delightful peach sorbet and a silky buttermilk panna cotta with fresh berries and crumbles of cardamom shortbread.

City: Dallas

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 287 N. Bishop Ave., Dallas, TX, 75208

Hours: D Tue–Sun.

Phone: 972-685-9150

Website: https://www.macellaiodallas.com/

Last updated: August 9, 2018