The menus of most Indian restaurants in San Antonio are north oriented, with items like tandoori and naan as the centerpieces. This family-owned spot in the medical center area takes you in a different direction, geographically and culturally. The spacious dining room is austere, but the food is anything but. Most of the dishes are served on banana leaf–lined metal trays and platters (along with small bowls of house-made chutneys, sauces, curries), notably the all-in-one tiffin meal of India’s south, with vegetarian or meat stews (and the essential rice) at the center. Flatbreads, from buttery roti to puffed-rice pooris to rolls of fermented crepe-like dosa, also make star turns here. A large tray with nine small saucers ran the gamut of taste profiles: from spicy chile to sweet rice pudding, aromatic yellow dal to creamy yogurt raita. Then came perfectly fried crunchy cauliflower with chile naan and, next, two pillowy rice idli and a savory chickpea doughnut to eat with yet another assortment of chutneys and dal. Needless to say, we felt as if we had traveled to the subcontinent by the end of our meal.
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Southern Indian bites, breads, and tiffins.